PRINCESS DRESS DOLL

Transcript for the video: Princess Dress Doll - All About the Pattern

Are you excited to make a princess dress just like this? Then you've come to the right place. I'm going to show you exactly how this works. In this video, we're looking at the pattern and the instructions real quick.

If you want to jump straight to making the dress, go to the video linked in the description. If you're watching on the website, it's the next video along.

Here, we're having a quick look at the doll, then we'll cut out our pattern and fabric and get started.

This is the dress you're going to be making. She is absolutely beautiful and such a lovely princess. You can see all the details we've added.

We have lace down the front and sides. These are princess seams, but not in a lining. I explain this in a minute, and it's really useful because you can also use the lining pattern as an outer version if you don't want princess seams.

The skirt has beautiful pleats, all facing upward, which gives a nice effect.

The pièce de résistance is the chiffon roses with a tulle detail wrapped around them.

I’ve also added work on the sleeves, which is really cute. At the back, there is a simple Velcro closure.

Printing Instructions

Here are a few tips for printing your pattern.

Use Adobe Acrobat Reader DC. When printing:

• Set scale to Actual Size
• Set orientation to Auto
• Do not use “Fit to Page” (this will shrink the pattern)
• If possible, print without margins so nothing gets cut off
• Make sure scaling options are disabled

If you accidentally set portrait or fit settings, the pattern may shrink and become inaccurate. For doll patterns this may not always matter, but for full-size garments it will.

If you're printing a lot of patterns and wondering what printer to use, I recommend the Epson 3750. I bought it several years ago and I still use the same ink cartridges. It prints a lot of full-color patterns, and the ink is very economical.

Pattern Overview

Let’s look at the pattern and instructions.

The sewing pattern is assembled using tape. Since this is a doll pattern, there are only a few pages to join.

The instructions include:

• A contents page for quick navigation
• Links to tutorials like zippers, sleeves, and more on the sewing library
• Video reference page
• Fabric requirements in both inches and centimeters

All measurements are provided in both systems, so there’s no confusion.

You’ll also find:

• Printing and assembly instructions
• Cutting guides and notch markings
• Seam allowance (always 1 cm)
• Layout plans for both panel skirt and gathered skirt

Fabric usage is optimized to avoid waste. For example, the panel skirt includes a seventh panel, which is cut separately. The layout is designed to maximize fabric efficiency.

Instructions and Resources

The instructions are photo-based. Some sections reference techniques from a girls’ dress, especially for lace application.

You can also find all related tutorials on the website.

The final pages include links to other projects you might like, as well as contact and social media details.

For support, you can reach out via email: marina@frocksandfrolics.com or use the WhatsApp button on the website.

Pattern Assembly Notes

Each square on the pattern should measure 2.5 cm (1 inch) in every direction. Always check this before cutting.

The pattern is designed to fit as many pieces as possible on one page. Larger pieces are split into sections labeled A, B, and C.

Black triangles indicate matching points for assembly. Tabs are added to make joining easier and more stable than edge-to-edge paper alignment.

Dashed lines show attachment or fold lines. These must be followed as indicated.

Skirt Construction Notes

There are two skirt options:

• Panel skirt
• Gathered skirt

Panel pieces are labeled A, B, and C. The gathered skirt uses A and B.

Check the diagram on the last page if you are unsure how pieces connect.

Pleats always face upward. Mark all pleat positions carefully using the dotted lines, then snip lightly at each mark.

Fold pleats upward following the arrows provided in the pattern.

Design Options

You can modify the design in several ways:

• Add a top skirt layer if desired
• Change lace direction (vertical or horizontal)
• Adjust skirt style between panel and gathered versions

Princess seams are included in the outer shell for structure and lace application. The lining does not include princess seams, though you can choose to match or simplify it.

For heavier fabrics like duchess satin, a separate lining fabric may be preferable.

Closure and Sleeves

The dress uses a placket closure at the back for easy wearing.

Make sure you cut two mirrored back pieces (left and right).

Sleeves are simple:

• One seam construction
• Channels are created on both sides
• Seam allowance is enclosed within the channel

Elastic is used:

• Shorter elastic goes on the neckline
• Longer elastic goes on the upper sleeve

Final Assembly Notes

After cutting:

• Ensure all pleats are marked correctly
• Check all panel alignment
• Confirm notches are lightly snipped, not cut too deeply
• Assemble seven skirt panels
• Prepare sleeves and back pieces
• Cut lining, bodice, placket, tulle, and trims

Decorative elements include:

• Tulle
• Chiffon roses (adjust size depending on material width and length)
• Lace trims (can be applied vertically or horizontally)

Closing

Once everything is prepared, you're ready to start sewing the dress.

If you want the pattern, visit frocksandfrolics.com. All video content and listings are available there.

Thank you for watching, and see you in the next video.

Transcript for the video: Princess Dress Doll - Sewing the Princess Dress

Are you excited to sew this beautiful princess dress? In this video, I'm showing you step-by-step how to make this absolutely stunning dress. So, let's get started.

Applying the Lace

The first step is applying the lace. In this version, the lace is applied vertically downwards, but you could also place it horizontally. I’ve done the horizontal version in the girls’ dress variation, so you can check that out if you want to compare techniques.

Start by attaching the trim to the side pieces. If your trim has a right and left side, make sure the right side is facing up. In my case, it doesn’t matter.

If you want the lace to face inward toward the center, place right sides together. Otherwise, keep it right side up so the seam allowance falls toward the side seam.

Sew the lace on, but slightly inside the 1 cm seam allowance so the stitching line won’t show when attaching the front piece.

Attaching Front and Side Pieces

Now sew the front piece to the side pieces.

Always sew from the side where you can see the stitching line clearly. The lace may shift slightly—this is normal.

Stitch directly on the line so the seam remains invisible from the outside.

Press the seam flat first before pressing it toward the center front. This helps avoid unwanted creases.

If the lace is delicate, place a cloth over it before pressing.

Center Front Lace Placement

Now attach the center front piece.

The neckline has a 1 cm seam allowance, so position the lace carefully so the pattern begins at the correct point.

You can stitch on both sides of the lace or zigzag it, depending on the material and direction of placement (vertical or horizontal).

Trim excess lace after securing it.

Neckline and Lining

Place the lining over the bodice to sew the neckline, again using a 1 cm seam allowance.

If the fabric feels slightly uneven due to lace or trim, gently ease it into place while sewing.

After sewing:

• Trim seam allowances if fabric is thick
• Clip curves carefully

Understitching

Next is understitching.

This secures the lining to the seam allowance so it doesn’t roll to the outside.

Sew close to the seam line using a longer stitch (around stitch length 3 or slightly above).

Pull the fabric gently as you sew to prevent puckering.

Press afterward using steam or a fabric weight for best results.

Back Bodice Construction

Now repeat the neckline process on the back piece.

Be careful not to confuse neckline and side seams—they can look similar.

Check the curve direction if unsure.

Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance unless otherwise specified.

Press seam allowances open, especially for thicker fabric like duchess satin.

Sleeve Construction

The sleeves are simple tunnel-style sleeves with elastic channels.

First:

• Sew the long edge with right sides together
• Form a tunnel
• Turn it right side out using a safety pin

Press with the seam centered underneath to avoid bulk at the edges.

Then:

• Stitch both sides to form elastic channels
• Use a 1 cm seam allowance

Insert elastic:

• One long piece
• One shorter piece per sleeve

Secure elastic ends with a zigzag or backstitch so they don’t slip back inside.

Attaching Sleeves

Attach sleeves to the armholes starting from the front.

Match seams carefully and pin from the underside for better control.

The longer sleeve edge goes downward, shorter edge upward.

Sew carefully around the armhole, avoiding pleats.

Repeat for the back armhole.

Press seams and reduce bulk where needed.

Side Seams

Now close the side seams.

Align shell and lining layers together so everything is sewn in one pass.

Match seam lines carefully, especially if working with gathers or layered fabric.

Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance.

Press seams open and trim bulk at armholes if necessary.

Skirt Construction (Pleated Version)

To form pleats:

• Follow all snip marks
• Fold each pleat upward
• Align larger snips together with smaller gaps in between

Press each pleat carefully.

Sew close to the edge from the visible side to keep pleats aligned.

You can optionally use pins, but careful pressing may be enough depending on fabric.

Skirt Assembly

All seven panels are sewn together.

Use a 1 cm seam allowance consistently.

Match pleats carefully at each seam.

Press seams open after stitching.

Hem

Finish the hem by folding it up to align with the lowest pleat line.

No measuring is needed—use the pleat line as a guide.

Slip stitch the hem:

• Pick up a few threads from the skirt
• Then a small section of the hem
• Keep stitches loose to avoid visible tension marks

Press with steam to finish.

Adding Tulle

Attach tulle above the pleat gaps.

Gather it slightly on one side before sewing it down.

Maintain consistent spacing (about 12 cm / 4¾ inches between rows).

Sew carefully around the skirt.

Chiffon Roses

Create roses using chiffon strips:

• Run a gathering stitch along one edge
• Pull to gather tightly or loosely depending on volume desired
• Roll into a rose shape
• Secure with hand stitching through the center

Attach roses securely to each gap on the skirt.

Stitch through the center so they don’t lift or shift.

Back Closure (Velcro)

Attach Velcro:

• Soft side on one half
• Hook side on the other

Align carefully with pleats and seam markings.

Sew straight down each side.

Reinforce the closure at stress points.

Final Assembly and Hem Closure

Close the center back seam carefully, ensuring pleats align.

At the placket:

• Align edges carefully
• Stitch with a short stitch length near the tip for strength
• Reinforce the corner

Trim bulk and press seams carefully.

Final Hand Finishing

Slip stitch the inner lining at the waist for a clean finish.

Use small, even stitches:

• Through lining fold
• Then into skirt fabric

Do not pull thread too tightly.

Finishing Touches

• Steam and press all seams
• Secure all roses and trims
• Adjust tulle placement if needed

Closing

The dress is now complete.

If you want the pattern, visit Frocks and Frolics at frocksandfrolics.com. All videos and tutorials are available on the listing pages and in the video library.

Thank you for watching.

Transcript for the video: Princess Dress Doll - Lace Application

Hi, this is Marina from Frocks and Frolics. We are sewing a princess Belle costume in this tutorial, the first in a series of fairy tale costumes. The pattern includes multiple options, including a zip fastening or a knit back, both demonstrated in this series.

To access the pattern, use the info button in the top right corner of the video to reach the playlist and website.

Sharing & Social Media

Let’s share this project on Instagram together using hashtags like #FrocksAndFrolics, #PrincessBelleCostume, and #PDFPattern. Tag Frocks and Frolics so others can find the tutorial and pattern easily.

Cutting the Pattern Pieces

For the bodice, the side panels are cut twice, the center front once on the fold, and the lining also on the fold. The back is cut twice on the fold. The skirt is made from 10 long panels, while the sleeves include a lining piece, optional puff variations, binding, and a tip template for correct length.

Fabric Notes

Recommended fabrics include polyester double crepe satin or similar materials, and a stretch knit or spandex for the back with good recovery. Lace can be single-edged for the center or double-edged for overlays. Tulle and trims are optional for added decoration.

Bodice: Applying Lace

Start by attaching lace to the bodice, leaving 1 cm at the top for the lining. Placement can be adjusted depending on design preference. Stitch using a straight stitch or slight zigzag, ensuring thread color matches the lace for a clean finish.

Sewing Bodice Panels

Join the side panels to the center front using a 1 cm seam allowance and pin to prevent shifting. Press seams after sewing. Additional lace or decorative layers can be added depending on the desired design.

Lining the Bodice

Line the bodice with either matching fabric or stretch lining if working with knit materials. Sew with right sides together, clip curves carefully, and reduce bulk at seam allowances before turning.

Understitching (Optional)

Understitching helps keep the lining inside but can be skipped by beginners since it makes sleeve insertion slightly more challenging. If used, stitch the lining to the seam allowance while keeping the fabric taut, then press well afterward.

Back Bodice

Repeat the same process for the back bodice, carefully distinguishing neckline from side seams. Use a stretch needle if needed for spandex and press seams open after sewing.

Sleeve Construction

Sleeves can be made plain or with gathered edges and optional overlays. After adding tulle (if desired), sew gathering stitches and attach the sleeve lining with right sides together using a 1 cm seam allowance.

Sleeve Finishing

Understitch the sleeve seam allowance to the lining and press carefully using a cloth if working with delicate tulle. Attach binding from the underside and turn it outward for a clean finish.

Inserting Sleeves

Attach sleeves by matching front and back notches carefully. Wrap lining over and close the underarm seam in one continuous pass. Always sew from the easier side and avoid bulk at the neckline.

Joining Bodice Sides

Once sleeves are attached, align shell and lining side seams together and sew in one pass. Snip underarm areas to release tension and press thoroughly.

Skirt Construction

The skirt consists of 10 panels with carefully marked pleats. Use a fabric marker rather than snips for accuracy. Overlock each panel after marking for stability, then sew all panels together while maintaining pleat alignment.

Skirt Shaping

Fold the skirt using the template and cut the hem shape accurately. Mark center front and side seam positions to guide gathering and assembly.

Attaching the Skirt

The front is gathered and matched to the bodice, while the back is stretched knit to fit. Sew the waist seam using a stretch or triple stitch, ensuring even distribution and secure attachment.

Waist Finishing

Overlock the waist seam and press lightly with steam. Check that gathers and stretch are evenly balanced before continuing.

Decorative Elements

Add optional embellishments such as lace, pearls, or trims by hand stitching them securely in place. These details enhance the fairy tale effect of the dress.

Skirt Ruffle

The ruffle is created from approximately 2 yards of fabric divided into sections and attached in scalloped shapes around the skirt. Overlap at the back and sew directly onto the skirt.

Chiffon Roses

Chiffon strips are gathered, rolled into rose shapes, and hand-stitched in place. Secure each rose through the center and use matching thread for a clean finish.

Hem Finish

The hem is finished using a blind hem stitch. Fold along the pressed line and stitch with minimal visibility from the outside. This creates a clean, professional finish without a heavy machine hem.

Final Result

The dress features a structured bodice, layered lace, a voluminous skirt, and detailed embellishments including roses and ruffles.

Closing

For the pattern and full tutorial series, visit Frocks and Frolics. Additional videos cover variations such as zip closures and more advanced construction techniques.

Transcript for the video: Princess Dress Doll: Chiffon Roses

Hi, this is Marina from Frocks and Frolics. We're going to make a beautiful chiffon ribbon rose for a Bell costume today.

Follow me on Instagram and Twitter. The links are in the description box below or under the info button in the top right-hand corner of the video.

Materials Needed

You need:

• 70 cm (26–27 inches) of the wider ribbon
• 1 meter (just over a yard) of the slimmer ribbon
• Matching thread
• Three beautiful pearls for the center

Preparing the Rose-Making Template

I want to show you a little trick for making fabric roses.

This is just a piece of wood with some nails pushed through at regular intervals. The spacing here is 4 cm wide, and I can use this to create the flower you've just seen. In this case, for my Bell dress, that's exactly what I want.

First, I need to get my thread ready, and I'm going to start with the wider ribbon.

Forming the Rose Petals

I think this is really cool.

One thing you have to remember is that the ribbon should always be pleated when you place it through the nails. That way, when it comes out, it gives you this gorgeous little shape.

It also works if you twist it as you come around and back to where you need to go. Twist it around once, which makes good sense, and then fold it together. It doesn't really matter how, as long as it's nice and tight.

Then go through again so that it holds itself. I go through the next one, come back, and do the same again. I fold this up and go through there, then around this side again.

You can see it here. I'm just going to fold it up, make sure it doesn't slip out, put it over, and then go around that one. Twist it a bit if I want to. I don't think it really matters too much as long as the center is nicely ruffled.

You can buy gadgets for this sort of thing. As I mentioned, I looked for one because I had to make five roses and thought there must be a quicker way. Unfortunately, I couldn't find a gadget or even a video showing how to use one.

If you know of one, leave a comment underneath. I would love to get one of these gadgets and show you how it works.

Continuing Around the Template

I'm just going to keep going around here.

Another thing I wanted to mention is that the taller these nails are, the better.

Now the key is to get your hand or finger in there and really hold everything in place. I'm just going to stick my needle through there so it can't go anywhere. Don't let go of it.

Go through a few times and secure everything. My thread wasn't really long enough, so I'm going to secure it and then quickly thread another one.

Creating the Pearl Center

I want to create a center for my little flower.

I got these pearls from Joann's, and each one was only about a dollar, so they're actually quite inexpensive.

I've put my pearls in a little container to keep them safe. One thing I saw at Joann's, which I thought was really nice, was using three different pearls together.

So I'm going to use:

• One gold pearl
• One red pearl
• One mini antique gold pearl

There we go.

I'm going to place those together here, and I think that's really pretty.

Attaching the Pearls

I'm just going to go through where I came out.

When you put on pearls, the key is to do it rather loosely. Don't pull the thread really tight because then the pearls have nowhere to go, and they always look like they weren't meant to be there.

The next thing we want to do is loop over and go through so we can position them correctly. I'm going to do that on the other pearls as well.

What that does is hide the visible thread.

You can see the thread here, so I'm going to go up, then over, and then back down.

Finishing the Rose

Now I need to secure the thread, and then the rose can go onto my dress.

I think it's really nice. You could also use these for hair clips and other accessories.

Excellent—only five more of these and I'm done.

Design Variations

When you look at the board and this flower, you can see that if these nails and these nails were placed further out and you only used them for the lower part of the flower, you would get a much more spread-out rose.

So have fun designing your own variations.

Conclusion

Do visit Frocks and Frolics for more learning videos and my awesome PDF sewing patterns.

Thank you, everyone, for watching, and I'll see you next time.

Bye!