JOANNA BOLERO

Wonderland Cardigan Overview

Transcript for the video: Joanna Cardigan - The Pattern

Here I want to introduce you to the Wonderland Cardigan. I have made it here with a lined hem, but the pattern is actually designed as a single layer. I decided to add lining because my fluffy fabric was not very nice on the inside.

I have added excellent buttons I got from Mood in Los Angeles. On the inside, there is a very simple facing, which keeps the construction quick and easy while still giving a clean finish. On the sleeves, there is a small cross stitch detail that helps retain elasticity and also looks really good. Most of the garment is finished with overlocking and topstitching.

Pattern Overview

Now we are going to look at the pattern. This is how it comes.

You will see:

• The name of the garment
• The age range
• Chest measurements in both centimeters and inches
• A test scale to check your print is correct

There is also a diagram showing how all the pieces fit together. This is very important because it is not a poster print. The pieces are split across pages and need to be joined along the dashed lines.

I will cut this out and then align the edges so the attachment lines match. I use something heavy to hold it in place, then tape the pieces together. Every size is different, so as you go up in sizes you will have more pages to join.

Assembling the Pattern Pieces

I have now assembled the front, which is made from pieces A, B, and C. I line up the joining edges so the pattern is continuous, then tape them together.

The same process is used for the sleeve, which comes in three parts, and also for the hood.

Each piece has clear markings:

• The sleeve has a yellow flower symbol
• The front has a white flower symbol
• The hood has a pink sunflower shape

These help you identify which pieces go together quickly.

Main Garment Pieces

Now we look at the actual pattern pieces:

The back is cut on the fold and uses a facing.
The front includes an integrated facing, which folds over to form a clean inside finish.
The hood has a 2.5 cm allowance that folds over twice.

I made the hood allowance slightly generous because different fabrics behave differently. Some fabrics are thicker and need less fold, while lighter jersey fabrics may need more structure.

The key point is that the hood stops at the marked point and does not continue into the shoulder seam. This ensures proper shaping and alignment.

Sleeve Notes

The sleeve includes a marked adjustment line. This allows you to shorten or lengthen the sleeve depending on preference.

I made the sleeves slightly longer, especially for older children, because many like to pull them over their hands or use thumb coverage. For smaller sizes, the length is already appropriate.

The sleeves are designed to be slim and fitted at the bottom. A two-way stretch fabric is essential for this pattern to work properly.

There is also a cross stitch detail on the hem. This is done by hand for better stretch and durability. A sewing machine is not recommended here, as it can make the hem too tight.

Some people prefer to hem first and then close the side seam, but I find it neater to complete it afterwards by hand so the stretch is preserved.

Getting Started

These are all the pattern pieces. Now we can get started.

Wonderland Cardigan

Transcript for the video: Joanna Cardigan All-In-One Tutorial

Welcome to the Wonderland Cardigan. The front is made from two pieces, left and right, and the facing is integrated into the pattern.

We start by overlocking the curved edge to create a clean finish, then we move on to assembling the garment step by step. The back is cut on the fold and also includes a facing. Shoulder seams and the lower edge of the facing are overlocked as well.

The sleeve is designed for two-way stretch fabric, while the body can be made from sweatshirt fabric that does not need to stretch. The hood can be made as a single layer, but in this example it is lined because the teddy fabric was not neat on the inside. The hood edge can also be decorated with roses, contrast fabric, or matching fabric depending on your design.

Pattern Preparation

Snip the front so you can clearly identify the center front. Mark the start of the hood and reinforce the buttonhole area with interfacing if needed. If your fabric requires it, you can interface the entire piece for added stability.

Overlocking the Main Pieces

Start with the front by overlocking the shoulders, side seams, and the curved facing edge. Then move on to the sleeves, overlocking both sides and the hem edge. Finally prepare the back by overlocking the shoulders, side seams, and facing pieces.

Hood Construction

Sew the curved back of the hood using a 1 cm seam allowance and repeat for the lining. Press or finger press the seams open, then place both hood pieces right sides together and pin around the edge.

Sew around the curve using a holding stitch. If the fabric pushes, simply turn and sew from the opposite direction. Use the snips as guides when shaping the hood, then adjust slightly if needed depending on fabric thickness.

Topstitch around the hood edge. With textured fabrics like teddy, small imperfections are not visible. Add a holding stitch at the lower edge so nothing shifts, and trim any excess carefully.

Assembling the Body

With right sides together, sew the shoulder seams using a 1 cm seam allowance and press them open. Sew the sleeve seams in the same way and press open as well.

Facing and Hood Attachment

Attach the back facing to the front facing, right sides together, using a 1 cm seam allowance and press open.

Attach the hood starting at the center back, matching all snips at the shoulder and hood start points. Pin evenly around the neckline and sew in place with a 1 cm seam allowance. Overlock if your fabric requires it.

Hem and Facing Finish

Fold the facing over, sew 2.5 cm from the edge, then trim the seam allowance and overlock. Secure the facing with pins or a holding stitch so it stays in place. Topstitching from the outside is optional depending on your finish preference.

Sleeve Insertion

Insert the sleeves by matching underarm seams and shoulder seams, then easing in the sleeve head. The sleeve cap should sit slightly eased in, even if it feels snug, as it is designed to fit that way.

Once both sleeves are attached, turn up the hem by 2.5 cm if desired.

Sleeve Finishing

Finish sleeves with a stretch stitch, zigzag, or triple stitch to allow flexibility and prevent thread breakage in stretch fabrics.

Hem Finish

Topstitch the hem from the outside at approximately 2 cm (5/8 inch), using your machine guides for accuracy.

Button and Buttonhole

Place the button carefully so it does not extend beyond the edge. Keep at least 1.5 to 2 cm clearance from the edge and always test your buttonhole size on scrap fabric first.

Final Details

Turn in the sleeve hem and secure using a cross stitch (Witches Stitch) to retain elasticity and flexibility. For a closer demonstration, refer to the Sewing Workshop tutorial.

Finished Cardigan

The Wonderland Cardigan is now complete. You can make it with a lined hood or a single-layer version depending on your fabric choice.

Now it’s time to create your own.